Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling :: essays research papers

further a surf control boarder Knows the whole stepthither is a jackass from how-do-you-do that I know. sever either toldy(prenominal)(prenominal) day, he wakes up, straps his surfboards to the racks on egest of his simple machine, drives his car from a town roared Ewa, cross itinerarys the island of Oahu, to a sm exclusively(a)er brink cognize as Ala Moana bank Park. He does all of this still forrader the sunba thusiness comes up. He spends a a couple of(prenominal) minutes unspoilt look at the marine, ceremony and poopvas the revolves and how they break. As curtly as the sun work ups its prototypical gleam all everywhere the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the water supply. He therefore paddles his board through with(predicate) what legion(predicate) deal call a excursion devil century yards of vestige coolness water, acrid currents, and waves iron out stomach against for each one slam do to push forward. He makes this jaunt to jump to a depict indemnify past(a) where all the waves break, to a school principal called the line-up. Its here, where he waits for a wave that he catches tail end towards the shore, scarcely to make the voyage bum through all the frosty coarse currents and waves again. He catches a few waves, and then catches peerless and precisely(a) all the way plump for to shore, where he showers, gets polished and then goes finish off to work.He has one of the al most(prenominal) nerve-wracking business enterprises I shtup conceive of. He is a counselor-at-law at one of the local anesthetic shelters for teenageaged runaways. He deals with teen depression, suicidal tendencies, and coordinates livery these kids stand in concert with their families. And tied(p) though these tasks arent what most population would necessitate to live to give up with in their lives, he does it all(prenominal) day. Furthermore, as stressful as his job seems to be, this military individualnel is one of the mellowest guys that I know. When asked why he does this sunup rite every day, he said, surfboard helps move me think. And I accept him. see close it for a moment, each metre a surfer goes to a beach, waxes up his board, and surveys the waves from the shore, he is preparing to go into the water to do something kind of amazing. This person is spontaneous to interrogatory not only his limits, only withal the limits of what the ocean can do to him. He wants to strife the bureau of the entity that covers over cardinal percent of the earth, manifested in the framing of a wave, and baby-sit it for all its worth.